The Permit Process
Permits: Upon signing a contract to have your pool built, you will be asked to supply us with a copy of your survey. These documents will be used to assess the boundries of your lot when designing the layout of the pool structure and the landscape designs that have to be submitted to the city. We will supply all other necessary documents and will file the application with your township.
Fees: The total fee includes the towns filing fee (this varies by town), stamped structural plans if required, and stamped drainage letters if required. Our engineer will provide these services at a modest cost. The customer will incur these costs.
Lead Time: The permit process can take anywhere from 2 to 12 weeks, depending on the town you live in. We can give you the application number so you may check the status of the permit periodically. In most cases, we can not start working on your pool until the building permit is approved and in your possession.
Variance: If your job requires a variance, you will need a rejected permit first. The variance process can take 2-4 months, and is handled by the homeowner. Assistance is available if needed, for a fee.
THE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
Pool Mark Out: After the permit is approved and as it gets close to the excavation date, you will be contacted to arrange an appointment at your home for a “mark out”. At this time your project manager will meet with you to paint out the pool on the ground. This will enable you to actually envision the pool on the property and make sure you are happy with the size, shape and location. Access to the yard, filter equipment location, setback issues etc. will all be addressed and a worksheet will be drawn up. This visit is very important to insure that all will proceed smoothly when we arrive at your home with heavy equipment to start the excavation.
Excavation: On the day of the excavation please make sure there are no cars parked in front of your home and if we are using your driveway as access, keep that accessible as well. This will prevent delays in getting started. Your project manager will meet the excavator there and stay until they actually start digging to make sure everything is being done according to plan. Please note that the excavator will be carting away the excess soil during the day to various dump sites that are available. If there are stumps in the site that they are digging out and carting, they will give you a price for those as well. Normal excavations can be completed in one day. Large pools or jobs requiring re-handling the dirt can take longer.
Timing: The installation of your pool is usually completed within 3-4 weeks from the excavation date. Some circumstances may delay this such as: Pool/Spa combos, weather, unusual site conditions, material shortage, or change of work orders. Due to the nature of this job, the installation crew will often work for only half the day, or a few hours in some cases, on your job. This is necessary due to the mandatory order of events and scheduling. The excavation is usually completed in one day
Delivery of Materials: The building materials will be delivered within 1 or 2 days of the excavation. If the delivery truck can not enter the backyard, the materials will be left on the front lawn or driveway. These materials will be moved to the yard by the pool company fairly soon, and will not damage driveway or lawn.
Wall Construction: In most cases the wall forms are erected and leveled by our crew in one day (Larger more complex pools, or construction starting later in the day may require more time). The concrete will be poured that day or the next day, unless we must wait for an inspection (In Nassau County this is almost always the case). You will not need to be home for the inspection but may have to leave certain documents available for the inspector to review. Your project manager will advise you as to when the inspection is taking place and any other instructions you may need. See also the Inspections Section.
Miscellaneous: After the walls are poured we will have to strip the forms off the concrete. Pools having customs steps, benches etc. will need more forms set up and additional pours. There will not be inspections required for those. After these steps are completed we can measure the pool for the liner. It is important that you have your liner pattern picked out by this stage (see below). Custom liners can take from 2-3 weeks to manufacture. During this time we will be doing what needs to be done so we can finish quickly once the liner is ready. Rough plumbing around the pool itself for all the fixtures, backfilling and setting up the filter equipment etc. During this phase the work schedule will be rather sporadic. It is common to feel neglected sometimes seeing the sun shining and no-one at your home but be assured we have not forgotten you!
Picking a Liner: You will be given an actual swatch of vinyl from several manufacturers so you can choose a pattern. Unless stated otherwise on your contract you will be getting a 20 Mil liner with your pool. This is the industry standard and will provide a good fit and many years of service.. Manufacturers do offer some thicker liners on certain patterns (27 or 28 Mil). These are available for an upcharge. (Staying with the 20 Mil liner is not a mistake or we would not offer it as standard equipment).
All liner samples will show a border at the top of each sample. These borders are optional and can be eliminated. There is no difference in price with or without a border
Note: the vast majority of our customers choose borderless liners, mainly due to the fact that most of our pools are custom. We can offer advice as well as providing digital pictures of different liners in pools when available. The liner is a very prominent feature of the pool and you will be looking at it for many years so we understand it can be a hard decision. Your project manager can assist you with this choice.
Liner Installation: The pool base will be placed in the pool and spread. It will be packed and smoothed with steel trowels. The vinyl liner will now be installed in the pool and snapped into a retaining track at the top of the wall. This procedure will take 4-6 hours normally. Please follow the filling instructions carefully.
Filling Instructions: It is very important to follow these directions carefully, as this will affect the cosmetic appearance and life of your liner.
1) Vacuums have been placed between the liner and the wall of your pool. These vacuums are removing the air from this area to prevent wrinkles while your liner is filling with water. It is important that these vacuums run nonstop until the water reaches the shallow area of the pool. This will usually take approximately 18 -24 hrs. for 8’ depth pools. (Pool size & water pressure will determine exact time.) If the vacuums stop for any reason and you are unable to restart them, turn off the water and contact us immediately. (Sometimes you will need to reset a tripped circuit breaker or GFIC outlet.)
2) When the water level in the shallow area reaches approximately 3”- 4”, or in most cases there will be a tape mark left for you to fill the pool up to, unplug the vacuums, turn the water off, and call our office. The vacuum will be removed at this point. We will start the water again and leave a new tape mark.
3) When the water reaches the next level, turn the water off and call the office. This can take up to 24 hrs. If necessary you may turn the water off and start it again at your convenience, so as not to lose sleep while monitoring water. (We will usually leave a piece of tape near the skimmer to mark this level.) At this time we will return to install the faceplates for the skimmers and the return jets.
4) You may now fill your pool to the proper operating level, which is approximately 2” below the top of the skimmer plate unless directed otherwise.
Equipment Set Up: The final stage of construction is the installation of the filter system and accessories. This includes: the pump, filter, heater, diving board, slide, ladder, handrails, etc. The above items are to be installed at the predetermined location noted on the worksheet.
POOL MAINTAINANCE
Filter Operation
Skimmer Water Level - Ensure that the pool's water level is halfway up the skimmer faceplate. This is the normal operating level, (even with the third screw on the face plate as you count from the bottom up).
Skimmer Basket/Throat - Keep the skimmer basket clean and make sure the skimmer throat is not obstructed.
Pump Strainer - Open pump to ascertain basket is clean, intact and seated properly. Never operate your pump without water or the strainer basket in the pump. Before closing, fill the pump housing with water. Replace the housing cover, making sure the gasket is in position so no dirt or grit will prevent a tight seal.
Filter Pressure Gauge - When starting the pump, it may take a short time for the filter pressure to normalize due to the presence of air in the suction lines. By opening the air bleeder valve located on the top of your filter to expel the air more rapidly. When the air has been expelled, the pressure gauge reading should be 10-15 psi on most filters (15-20 psi on systems with heaters).
Test your pool water twice a week. If your water test indicates a low chlorine level, turn up your chlorinator. If your test indicates a high chlorine level, lower your chlorinator. Bather load, rainfall, and sun exposure will affect the amount of chlorine your pool will require.
Tabs - Fill your chlorinator with 3 inch tabs on the same day each week. Most pools require 5-7 tabs depending on size of pool. Do not exceed 7 tabs unless specifically directed to do so. Chlorine tabs dissolve like bars of soap, do not wait until there are none left in your chlorinator.
Shock your pool at least once a week, twice per week when it is very hot or the bather load is high. You should add 1/2 a pound of lithium hypochlorite shock, for every 10,000 gallons of pool water or liquid shock as directed. You should only shock your pool in the evening, as the sun burns off the chlorine.
Algaecide should be added once per week as a preventative measure. Use 5 ounces of 30% algaecide per ten thousand gallons of pool water. It is less expensive to add this product weekly, then it is to clear up a green pool when it occurs.
pH needs to be checked twice a week and maintained within 7.2 to 7.6 on your test strip. If your total alkalinity is not above 100 PPM your pH will have a tendency to drift, so always adjust total alkalinity first then retest and adjust pH if needed.
Water Chemistry
The maintenance of proper water balance is the single most important factor to maximizing the life and appearance of the liner. Proper pH levels, for example, allow the chemicals to perform their function. Chlorine needs a certain pH level to kill bacteria and algae.
Proper technique is important for water testing. See your pool professional for test kits and testing procedures. Be sure to read and follow the written instructions from the chemical manufacturer.
The following table shows ranges for the basic water chemistry parameters that work in most areas of the county:
pH 7.2 - 7.6 Daily Allows other chemicals to operate properly
Free Chlorine Residual 1.0 - 1.5/pp* Daily Kills bacteria
Total Alkalinity 60 - 125/ppm* Weekly Ability of pool to counteract change in pH levels
Cyanuric Acid 30 - 75/ppm* Monthly Stabilizes water chemistry
Calcium Hardness 175 - 250/ppm* Monthly To avoid corrosive conditions in pool systems
*PPM = parts per million
pH Levels
Not only do proper pH levels allow the other chemicals to do their work but also it is important to note that low and high levels can cause damage to the liner. Under the right circumstances with pH below
7.0, the liner can actually grow and develop unsightly wrinkles. High pH greatly accelerates the aging process and shortens the life of the liner.
Chlorine
In most areas of the country, the circulating range of 1.0-1.5 ppm of chlorine will do the job of killing the bacteria in the water. Above this range high concentrations will attack the liner, bleach it, and shorten life. Below the range may not kill the bacteria causing unsanitary conditions and possible staining.
Never let chlorine come into contact with the liner before it has fully dissolved. This means that granular or tableted chlorine is dissolved first into a bucket of water, and likewise liquid chlorine is poured in various locations around the pool and is immediately agitated, dispersed and circulated. The broadcasting of tablets, granules, or concentrated chemicals can bleach the liner and shorten the life of the liner.
Particular care is required for introduction of gas chlorine since the concentrations is so high.
Never mix chemicals together, instead add chemicals to pool water separately and circulate throughout pool before adding second chemical.
Clean the Water Line
Another major contributor to shortening the life of a pool liner is dirt and grime at the water line of the liner. The "bathtub ring" is usually caused by the accumulation of airborne contaminants, combining with dirt and body and suntan oils to settle on liner and can be baked into the liner by the sun. If the scum line gets baked in, it acts on the vinyl to prematurely dry and crack it, especially in the "sun corner" of the pool.
There is a simple and inexpensive way to reduce the problem. Routinely wipe the water line with a sponge (or a sponge with a recommended vinyl cleaner) to eliminate grime build up.
If grime build up has occurred, be sure to use only vinyl cleaners recommended by your pool dealer. NEVER USE ABRASIVE CLEANERS OR PADS ON THE LINER. DO NOT USE GASOLINE, KEROSENE, OR OTHER PETROLEUM PRODUCTS EITHER, AS THEY CAN CAUSE RAPID DETERIORATION OF THE LINER.
Protect the Water Line
A good, non-alcohol, non-petroleum based vinyl protective liquid applied to a clean vinyl surface will reduce grime build up and ultra violet deterioration. Be sure to talk to a pool professional. Select a product specially suited for this use.
Don't Drain the Pool
Never lower the water level of the pool to less than a foot of water in the shallow end. If water pressure is removed from the liner, it may shrink, causing, at the least, an unsightly liner, and up to tearing around fittings or in the corners. DO NOT DRAIN THE POOL; FIRST CALL YOUR POOL PROFESSIONAL.
Automatic Pool Sweeps and Maintenance Equipment
Only use vacuum head, pool sweeps, brushes, or other maintenance equipment that has been specifically designed for vinyl liner pools. Never use the telescopic pole in the pool without the attachment.
Vinyl Liner Repair
In the case where a tear or cut occurs in the liner, it normally can be repaired with special pool vinyl repair products available from your pool dealer. The adhesives are made to work under water or in the air. Consult your dealer for the proper repair procedure indicated.
Closing Your Pool
Using the proper procedure for closing your pool is very important to extending the life and beauty of the liner. See your pool dealer for specific instructions and assistance.
We suggest that you have your pool water tested professionally twice per month and immediately after opening, and prior to closing your pool. Preventative maintenance costs less than clearing up your pool after it has turned green!